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Once the boat is neatly ensconced within the lock, all eyes focus on the water as it
begins to drain at a rate of 5 metres a minute (for upstream, the water will rise, not drain). Having dropped to
the water level of the next lock down, the forward doors begin to open like a yawning giant. And so it is, lock
after mammoth lock.
Spillway
Historic Journey
But for all its man-made wonder, the dam is just one of several
spectacular destinations along the river.
Chongqing is an ancient mountain city, famous for its hotpot and other delectable dishes,
possessing all the trappings of modern life quaintly blended with its old town charms of antiquity.
Its port facilities and road access have been notably upgraded. Brand new port facilities
downstream at Fengdu, Wanzhou, Badong and Maoping are all currently under construction.
On this particular cruise, Fengdu (Ghost City) is the first port of call downstream. The
several minutes ascending to the manicured and expansive temple grounds atop the peak via the open cable car is
calming, refreshing and fun.
The lift rise through the quiet of the surrounding flora, abundant and verdant, replete
with dancing butterflies and birdsong wafting between the rays of golden sun that pierce the forest, along with
assorted other sought after sights, sounds, and scents of nature. And then there are the ghosts...
Next up, Wanzhou, where we disembark to be entertained by a world-class acrobatic troupe,
a very exciting show, followed by a leisurely stroll among the antique stalls where one might perhaps stumble
across the occasional gem in the rough.
On to the Gorges! The walls of Qutang Gorge ascend rapidly as one enters. Baidicheng (White
Emperor City) wwas formerly shrouded in high mists in the old Three Gorges. It is now more readily visible,
conveying a sense of greater accessibility.
Qutang Gorge
Before the waters rose, this gorge was narrower and the water rushed through it at great
speed (the Bernoulli Effect or Principle, for those aspiring and accomplished physicists) making for a rougher
ride, especially on the upriver leg.
However, now that the water level has risen and the river has widened somewhat, the pace
of the water slower and the journey much smoother.
One of the most beautiful aspects of the gorges are the "layers" of mountains trailing off
into the distance like cresting waves. The waters having risen, one's vantage point is heightened, creating the
feeling of having grown 50 odd metres, or having attainted gianthood with the ability to visually penetrate
still deeper into the ranges behind the gorges as their silhouettes recede silently into the backdrop. And yet
the cliffs and peaks still tower above magnificently so there is no significant difference in the appearance of
their great heights.
Wuxia Gorge
The bluffs of Wuxia are no less impressive. The only major
difference is that the goddess peak is now nearer, again offering a better view of one of the high points of the
trip and improving the experience rather than detracting from it. Folklore suggests that the closer proximity to
the goddess can improve one's fortunes in life.
The Lesser Three Gorges and Shennong Stream still provide dramatic scenery. With more
water they are more accessible allowing one to sail closer to the shoreline. The "hanging coffin" is
still hanging out of the cave.
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